New Maquettes Asterix II

After a lot of time trying to decide whether or not I wanted to build a new model, and if so what sort of model, I decided on a kit, and have just received this one



At first glance this is a quality kit. All the frames are cut out ready - not lasered or die cut. The timber looks to be good quality. The instructions are in French, which will be an extra challenge, but luckily my Daughter is fluent in the language - although I'm not sure that includes nautical terms

More information when I get started.

Barrie

Hi Barriew

Looking forward to this build.

Fred

Well, no building yet, but I have managed to translate the instructions using some free Internet resources. I scanned the French instructions to PDF, used on online (FREE) French OCR programme, then used Google translate to translate the French to English. It worked remarkably well. There are a few words it didn't handle, and some boat terms are probably not quite right, but its easier than struggling with the French.

Barrie

Good start Barrie - nice to be able to read the instructions -you should enjoy it. If there are no burn marks the parts are probably spindle cut on a cnc router.

I've made a start  First job is to glue the prop tube into the keel. Now waiting for the glue to dry. The lower part o the keel is slightly warped so care will be needed to ensure the hull is straight.

Barrie

Major Problem  The keel has stuck well, so I started to put together the pieces for the next phase - formers, and construction of the forward section of the hull. 
I should say that the construction method is rather different to the norm, The hull is initially constructed in two parts.
There are pieces missing from the forward part of the hull - unfortunately they do not show on the plan, so I cannot make them from my stock. They are only pieces of ply, but with no dimensions I am stuck.

I have emailed CMB, so no more progress until I hear from them.

Back to plastic cars

Barrie

Revenge for Waterloo! seriously that's poor their fittings are top notch I'm surprised their quality control doesn't match.

Well, the good news is that I do have the pieces. 
They were included with a pack of assorted rectangular bits of ply - no identification on any of them, and the parts not dimensioned on the sketch showing their installation  
At least New Maquettes got back to CMB quickly. I just have to work out where the other pieces fit

I have started a plastic car, so will have to get that to a point where I can leave it before continuing with Asterix.

Barrie

I've not felt much like modelling recently for various reasons, but this morning I got the plastic car to a point where I can leave it, and then turned to Asterix. 
I spent some time dry assembling the formers to the hull to try to understand how they went together. Everything is made from 3 mm ply. It very stiff, which is good for the keel and formers, but not so good for the sides which have to be curved to fit the hull
The bottom of the hull is planked with 3mm x 10mm planks for about two thirds of the length where it is flat. The remainder is made from the ply, with  a resin moulding at the bow.

I need to think if I can make this work.

Barrie

You can do it Barrie no Frenchie boat can defeat an Englishman!  

I'm considering not using the supplied cladding material and using either 0.8mm ply or 2 mm Liteply. 

Watch this space - but don't hold your breath

Barrie

I've just got through Trafalgar audio book I'm feeling quite patriotic. You've got the tools and talent go slow it'll be easy once you get into it.

I had a call from CMB this afternoon to say they had received a replacement set of parts from New Maquettes . I did actually tell them that I had found the parts . However very good service.
I have been considering my options for building this kit. 
One of my problems is that to use the supplied 3mm ply parts I will need to steam them. I have no facilities for doing that in my workshop, and anyway would not like to fill it with steam in this weather. So, some options :-

1. leave the building until better weather, then get hold of a camping stove so I can steam outside.
2. Replace the 3mm ply with 0.8 mm birch ply. This will need me to modify the formers to take chine stringers.
or 
3. Put it on Ebay

Barrie

I have made a start  My plan is to build until I need to steam the 3mm ply, then leave it until the better weather.
These are the forward two bulkheads which attach to the front keel piece. I am not sure of the purpose of the two angled pieces. There was no indication of the exact angle, so I hope this is correct.
I have also marked the position of the other formers on the remainder of the keel. I need to cut a piece of wood for a baseboard and then can start assembling the remaining formers.

Barrie

I am really struggling with this build  All the formers were pre-cut, including the slots for the keel. However for some of them, if I fit them to the keel to the full depth of the cut, then the deck will not be level  as you can see on the right hand former in this photo.



You will also notice the other one in this photo only just touches the upper part of the keel



In this photo the 3 right hand formers are glued.

I have completed assembly of the forward part of the keel, including the two resin blocks.



I have also drilled a 2mm pilot hole for the rudder tube. I did this so I could use my drill press before I attached the formers. The tube is 3.7mm diameter and the keel is 4.5mm thick - no mention of doublers, but I will be adding some before opening out the hole  Interestingly, the rudder post supplied is threaded steel rod . I will be replacing it with brass.

Barrie

I decided the former must be wrong, so I have installed it as I think it should be  I have also installed the transom, except it isn't! The slot in that was not deep enough, so I enlarged it. The true transom is still to be fitted at a later stage.



On first attempt, the front section doesn't match up with the former positions on the keel - I need to check my measurements



Reading the instructions again, they say to fit the 3mm hull side panels first, then plank the bottom. I had planned to do the planking first, and I think I will do so.

Barrie

I joined the two parts of the keel and fitted the final former. The position of the formers doesn't match the plan, but that's the only way it would go.  Maybe it will cause problems later, but we'll see
This is a very awkward shape to work on - you can't turn it over, so holding in the vice is the only option at the moment. The next steps are to fit some side decks, and the actual transom. I hope the decks will add some strength, and I will also see if it is possible to add some strength to the join between the two parts of the keel.

Barrie

Barrie

The keel has a twist
I thought that may be the case, but it is shown on this photo



As shown by the two decks, the former is twisted to the left in the photo. I hope this will be corrected when I glue the decks to the former

Barrie

You don't get many breaks with your choice of kits do you? I can feel the frustration with every post.

Swab wrote:

You don't get many breaks with your choice of kits do you? I can feel the frustration with every post.

No I don't. If I build another it will be mainly scratch built, though preferably with a ready made hull. I have two in mind.

Barrie

Hi Barriew

You are so right with what you say about kit's, I only have two left to build and I am not looking forward to building them.

I now only try and build with a ready made hull, but I have found that even with the template kit that some come with you can still run into problems, I am now force feeding SWMBO with Rice Krispies just for the box's, so that I can make a mock-up of all the deck housings in cardboard.

Fred

So asking the forum who do the best kits then? I've seen complaints about most. I don't think I'll do a full scratchbuild again, Waverly will be started soon I think that's as far as I'll go scratchbuilding in the future if I do many more boats. I've mellowed slightly I was going to stop but I feel I want to do something fast not a racer just something that leaves a wake.

I've by no means tried all the manufacturers but probably the best full kit I made was the Aeronaut Victoria. I also had quite a good experience with Artesania Latina. I never finished the model, but that was because I couldn't manage the rigging.

I am happy to build Caldercraft and Deans Marine Kits as I know what to expect of them.  Dumas are OK, but the wood is pretty poor quality. 

Most of the Billings kits I have made have been old ones. I don't think I have made one from the current production.

Barrie

 

Finally got back into the workshop and fixed the side decks, which has allowed me to try and correct the twist. I wont know if it has worked until the glue has dried. I am fairly convinced that there is a problem with former number 4, I do even wonder if it is in fact number 5. As they were all cut out and there are no templates on the plan I can't be sure.
When the glue is dry I will have to check out the alignments to ensure the planking and side panels are going to be OK.

Barrie

That's a fair sized boat I'd not really got that impression from the other photos, I hope it comes good it's dispiriting to fight on your bench. When I was a lad i saw what I took to be an Aeronaut Scharnhorst glide across a local pool I've heard nothing bad about their warship kits either but given the price it's the Butler building them. 

Its about 55cm long. I couldn't find anything smaller that I wanted to build 

Barrie

Well - it looks as though I have succeeded in straightening the hull.  However, I was right to suspect Former 4. The top is level with the other formers creating the deck, but the lower edge is too low.



I have tried to correct this by adding some additional wood to bring it into line.



I can now start planking the hull. 

Barrie

I have found more problems  The rear hull is wrong  I tried the side panels yesterday and found that they don't fit. The front of the deck is too high.

I have decided to leave it for now while I think of what to do. I can't alter it, so will have to make new skins - not really a problem as I have liteply and birch ply - but I also need to decide if I am going to use the 3mm planks for the bottom of the hull.

Back to plastic cars for a week or so.

Barrie

OK - decision made   Today I tried using some 2 mm liteply for the bottom of the hull. I cut a piece to fit but as I was finalising the fit, I snapped it   I don't have enough to try again, and in any case I realised it would be very difficult to clamp it whilst the glue set. So that determines it - planked bottom and 0.8 mm birch ply hull sides. I will probably start the planking tomorrow as it will only be possible to add one plank to each side at a time as again clamping will be very tricky.

Barrie

First two planks fitted  The 3 mm wood didn't like bending even after a 15 minute soak in hot water. I will add two strips a day until finished

Barrie

I now have 3 planks each side, plus a lot of gaps  It's going to need a lot of P38. I will cover the inside with tissue and resin where I have access.

Barrie

Are those Balsa planks Barrie?

Unfortunately no. Not quite sure what it is, lime maybe.

Barrie

I'm no fan of balsa but the Orca went together easier using it the flexibility and being able to pin it in place helped with the hull which had some awkward curves for a novice. Would it be a massive pain to restart the planking compared with struggling on and filling and sanding?
Plastic kits have got a certain charm when you want an easy life haven't they?  I'm doing a 1/72nd Messerschmitt 110 to give me a break for a while.

I'll struggle on - I'm getting the hang of it.
I am building a Model T at the same time

Barrie

Why don't we do a new thread 'other builds to keep you sane'   
I fancy a World War 1 bus but a Civilian build.

A bit more progress. I started using pins instead of clamps which allows me to fit more planks in a session. Just a bit of infilling required on this side, then the tricky bows. They will need steaming. 
I found some liteply with the grain in the right direction, which saved a lot of fiddling about.  I'm not sure I have a piece for the other side though
It doesn't show on this photo, but some of the formers are too wide and will need trimming.

Its a good job the planks are 3mm thick - there's a lot of sanding required.

Barrie

Barrie

Gaps filled and side 2 almost complete. Just waiting for the final piece to dry so I can glue it i place. I had to steam this piece as it was not as flexible as the other.
I can't see how the bow pieces are supposed to work - they don't seem big enough, never mind trying to steam them to fit.



I am currently planning to use some 0.8mm birch ply to make the sides. When that is done I will work out how to fill the gap 

Barrie

hi barrie,
 sorry to hear you are having problems . as regards the bow just use balsa blocks, it rubs down with sander a lot better than what you are using just my thoughts .

david

Yes David, that's what I will probably use once I've got the hull sides covered and I can see what is needed. Its a strange construction and the material is not very forgiving.

Barrie

Side 1 sanded, filled, sanded again and filled again.



The insides have been treated with fibre glass tissue and resin which should seal any leaks. I've just realised that once the sides are on there will be no access to the forward part of the hull to add ballast. I will have to try to cut a hole in the bulkhead.

Barrie

The other side was sanded and filled today. I then opened out the hole for the rudder tube and installed the propshaft. That threw up a problem -




No much room for the motor

However, the side view shows even more serious problems



You can see the problem caused by the incorrect fitting of former 4. I do not know how I can correct this now

Barrie

I think I've fixed the wave in the hull bottom.   I took a fine saw and cut between the outer three planks and the former, then inserted a wedge to lift the planks to a better height.
I cant do anything about the sloping deck, I will just have to hope it doesn't give any problems later in the build.

More sanding and filling on the hull - ready for another - final? - sanding tomorrow.



I wont really know if its good enough until I get some paint on it.

Barrie

I've now finished - at least until I get some paint on - filling and sanding the hull. 
Today I decided to try to line up the motor, and cut some holes in the bulkhead to allow me to get some ballast into the bows.



It doesn't look very pretty, but it was very difficult to get good access. Most of it was done with grind stones and sanding discs, although I did use a mini-circular saw blade, which caused quite a bit of smoke
I think I will still need to cut down the propshaft.

Once I have the motor aligned then I can start to cover the hull sides.

Barrie

I've seen worse Barrie some sealing resin will make it look spanking! this kits fighting all the way isn't it?

Mainly due to me not getting the bulkheads correctly aligned  Hopefully I'm winning now - just to get the motor and propshaft aligned, then I can get on with the hull sides.

Barrie

A little more sanding in the hull and the  motor is now in alignment.
I next turned my attention to the bows. I used the supplied piece to make a card template to check for fit. I then cut a piece of balsa to follow the shape of the keel and provide a fixing the lower edge. I made the final piece in 2mm liteply. This bent to shape without steaming and has been glued and pinned in place. The pins will stay



I hope that after filling and sanding it will look OK. I still have to repeat on the port side.
I also spent quite some time cutting and shaping some brass to make a skeg to replace the plastic one supplied. I can now fit the rudder tube and rudder.

Barrie

Limited time this morning, but I managed to fit the other bow piece and cut two side panels. The first is fixed but I didn't have enough clamps or time for the second one.



Next step is to fill the bows and then glue the second side. I am thinking of putting some P40 into the bow to strengthen and seal the area. There will be no access once the sides and deck are in place.

Barrie

Filler applied to the bows, and I managed to get some P40 into the bows to seal and strengthen.
Next I decided I should fix the motor and rudder tube while I still had access from one side.



Not sure where I'm going to put the steering servo.

Lots of sanding tomorrow, then side 2 to fix.

Barrie

Its rubbed down quite well - just the final bits of filling to finish sanding. Second side also fixed. 
I've been working on the forward part of the hull sides and have one almost ready to fix. I think I will have to use quick setting epoxy for this as it is almost impossible to get any clamps or tape to hold it in place. I just have to decide if I should fit the forward deck before the side.

Barrie