Wrigley 121

Hi Damien, you need to use Styrene solution to thin the resin up to a maximum of 8% by weight (any more than that will start to break down the resin). I wouldn't recommend using acetone as it is designed to dissolve the chemical bonds in the resin.

The build is looking good and I love the belt tensioning idea so simple.


W..

Thanks Windy, I'll see if I can just get a 1lt bottle on line.

Progressing well, back of motor room notched to clear the drive belts.





Then cut and assembled the cabin sides and front.
and sat the roof funnel and bridge in place.





Polyester resined the motor room and the radio and battery bilge I poured in heaps more than necessary and then rolled the hull over side to side and upside down to fully coat the hidden under deck and let it settle in the bilge and removed the excess one brush full at a time it worked surprisingly well I brushed the deck with leftovers but it dried with deep brush strokes in the resin Hence I'm looking for Styrene thinners.
I had a thought I have a consolidating roller for working bubbles out of resin/cloth lay ups I had the idea a flat brass roller instead of the current threaded one will roll off the excess after brushing I give it a try on some scrap tomorrow.

Started the cabin today the general box is ready for the roof.



Roof detail started.



while watching Star trek Voyager and perusing the magazine I noticed I've missed some stringers on yje cabin box roof I'll look at them some more tomorrow.
We have some really pleasant weather at present.

Got the 6 vents done before hand cramps and double vision made it too dangerous for using a scalpel and super glue on fiddly bits, pleased with the results.

Disappeared to the shed after dinner. got the paddle arm supports on and the cabin top on the bridge house is sitting on.

The vents painted in heritage red.



I made the guard rail stanchions and the railings from 15A electric house cabling after stripping insulation, the stanchions from power wire 1.5mm dia I learned a little trick if you clamp one end of the copper wire in a vice and grip the other end firmly with a heavy pliers and move your arm quickly away it will straighten and garden the copper.

Next I stripped the insulation fro the earth wire to reveal 7 strands of fine wire around 4' long I clamped one end in forceps clamped it in vice then ensuring equal length twisted a loop in the other end, out coat hanger wire I made a J hook which I put in my cordless drill an placed the loop over the hook operate the drill until the wire rope looks like you imagine scale rope to be. I must add this rope making reduces the overall length the 4' I started with ended around 3' of fairly stiff cable.

The pic shows the outer insulation of the cable, the Stanchions and my wire rope.

A bit of lathe fun some 11.5mm brass bar turned into a ships horn 10mm x 16mm I don't have a boring bar small enough to do the inside taper so I used 5 drill sizes to step the the inside.

Guard rail stanchions on upper an lower deck.





I'll start the railings tomorrow.

Stanchions added to the lower deck and the railings added.





and a starts on the upper deck rails until my fingers on left hand decided they'd cramp and twist funny shapes rather than hold the .8mm solder.

Another hour after dinner and I finished the upper deck railings the curved forward rails were challenging but look ok.

looking well damien

Primer applied.



Ready for sanding.

Temp mid 30's C for the next week the first cool day I'll be in hospital having Gall bladder removed I guess that'll put paid to a few more days.

good luck Damien.......and Wrigley is coming on a real treat.
looks real good,

neil.

Thanks Neil.

Yes mate best of luck with the op hope your swift to recover.

Thanks Phil one day to go lol.

A bit more done painting little folk.
Having trouble getting skin colour right though, currently have ethnic ok I have to work on aussie tans lol.



A new interpretation of stuck up?????

While they looked good while handling them to paint other parts the acrylic paint I used just rubs off the plastic figures I suppose I should have air brushed them with primer first back to ebay and bought pre-painted ones.

Damien,

I've used Humbrol enamels to paint this type of figure.That seems to stick

Barrie

Back at it today 36 seated 1/30th seated figures arrived form China yesterday so I set about making seating the seat and back were easy while puzzling over the legs Jo said what about those button thingy's you gave me, they were holding the cord in the bottom rail of the Timber Venetian blinds I bought for the timber.



The one on right has bolt fitted so I could chuck it in the lathe, the one on left is machined the correct size but is a reject as it turned out of centre.

Next pic is the seats with stands fitted and a few bodies sitting.



I then had an idea to have a curved seat around the front of the bridge I tried a curve copy thingy with multiple needles without much success just bent guard rails, I decided to mold balsa around the front I soaked 2 strips cut across the grain after an hour I patted them dry with towelling put a line of PVA down the middle an bent it around the bridge held in place to dry with some stiff hat elastic.



I'll check tomorros to see if it worked or just jlued itself to the bridge house it'll be or

It worked well before removal I ran a bead of supaglue around the outer edge and and only had about 10mm outward movement when removed I measured the bridge width and glued a scrap in place to hold it.

The mold worked a treat I successfully cut 10mm wide U the fiddly bit was cutting 10 10mm x 10mm triangle supports for the seat. It wasn't until I processed the pic's that I found the guard rails were misshapen. Ohh well there's always tomorrow.

Coming on nicely Damien

Barrie

Thanks Barrie it's a race against the weather now to get some colour on her before the cold sets in.

Before priming the bridge seating I had to sand filler smooth it was fiddly behind the railings so I made this from a 3 1/2" emery board and a bit of scrap & a few drops supa glue.

is that very small linked chain you are using for the rails, Damien, or specially twisted rod.........looks amazing stuff.
I am enjoying this.......something totally different from the norm.

Thanks Neil.
The railings are made with 2 strands from 7 strand electrical wire I strip about 4ft unravel it and take 2 strands twist a loop in each end chuck one end in a vice and with a hook made from scrap wire (coat hangar or bike spoke)chucked in a cordless drill attached to the other end with wire held taught start drill in what ever direction you choose as the wind progresses move in with it and stop when you think the wind is tight enough when satisfied put the drill in opposite direction for a few turns to release the tension if the hook is slipped off before this it will whip madly around possibly doing damage to itself and maybe to you.

The wire rail diameter is easily changed by adding strands of wire.
I have some gold chain Jo gave me for the dock to deck entry way.

Ingenious.

cheers, neil.

Bit of a set back hmmm more like a disaster sprayed the deck yesterday when had a look this afternoon the surface has cracks like lightening all over it I don't understand it I used grey high fill primer and brand new enamel paint never experienced anything like it in 45+ years of modelling.
I take a pic. in the morning.
And to top it off when cleaning the airbrush I must have splashed a drop of thinners on the roof of the freshly painted Bridge roof consequently blistered a 20mm circle on the roof it wasn't my day.

Damien it sounds to me like something was sprayed onto the primer unknown to you befor you applied the colour was any one dusting and polishing in the vicinity of the wrigley between coats or is it possible the paint stock was somehow damaged/comtaminated in storage

Unsure but it was thoroughly wiped down with a tack rag prior to painting and the paints were brand new tins of yellow and white mixed to get a heritage creamy/yellow and worked OK on the upper deck.
I removed and discarded the railings read to hit with the detail sander and take it back to bare card and start over.

The damage to roof of bridge went through to the primer an easy fix I'll wet sand it back to primer and re-paint.



The deck is a different kettle of fish I used a red Stop putty (Automotive) prior to the grey primer applying the top coat some how caused a reaction and went through all layers and split the surface of the 2mm card I can't see it being resurrected as is I'm thinking I'll place another deck over the existing one might be the easier fix.







Apart from the mishaps it is coming together the Paddle wheels and the vents are the same colour as the bilge.

Scary how that was able to happen Damien you'd have thought the primer would've prevented that

it's horrendous when that sort of thing happens, and especially when the paints/stoppers are supposed to be interactive........makes me wheep with frustration......best of luck with the resto Damien.......I feel for you matey.

neil.

Thanks Phil and Neil I contemplated using a 24oz hammer on it !!!! only for a short time though.
I cut a new deck with about 10mm overlap to make it more realistic of our river boats. Ummm to be honest it's so 1mm holes for the stanchions won't be drilled into the 1.25mm stanchions I cut off to sand the cracks out, I then drilled 29x1mm holes for the new stanchions.
I mixed some polyester resin for glue I brushed a heavy coat on the deck and placed the new deck on top & put weights all over the deck and went it to watch some episodes of Haven, while bending the copper wire stanchions to shape.
4hrs later it still hadn't cured fully 6c was a bit cold I should have warmed the resin prior to adding the MEKP.

While it was clamped I flipped it upside down and epoxy'd the stanchions in place.

All good a little filler and a diamond burr to remove resin that oozed into the groove the cabin sits in.
Pics later some man of the house things to do.

Made a start on the railings and discovered half of them needed more epoxy I should have mixed a second batch instead of persevering with half cured batch yesterday, but forgot to take the camera tomorrow's another day.

the pic's

The underside of the new deck with stanchions epoxy'd in place.



The first bits of railing on.



The spacer block I made to get the height right on the lower rail.



Rails finished bar a little filing on pointy bits of solder.



Ready for a complete re-paint tomorrow as the weather is warming up.

Her bum repainted.



The vents and seats had to be repainted as I neglected to put a lid on the storage container and they got grey overspray all over them.





I think I have a solution to my paint problem I've been using general purpose thinners for both enamel and Auto acrylic paints theres no hastle with the acrylics but enamels go ballistic when a second coat is applied I only used GP as the paint dries quicker than thinning with turps and I'm to scungy to buy enamel thinners, this time I'm using turps for all coats.

Using turpentine solved my enamel woes, I wasn't happy with the original cream colour so when I mixed the new batch I added a little black to the yellow white mix and low and behold it became a lemon/green I really like it.



The paddles were painted with the first batch of hull colour therefore is a slightly different colour.



put a couple on the upper deck seat.



The couple and seats sitting in place for Pic's.





I still need to lay non skid walk ways prior to an overall coat of satin clear.
And make a stand for her I've chosen a name for her "The Lady of The Lake"
As you can see I'm moving again after my paint setback

Made a start on the non-slip treads the gizmo I made for getting the profile of bridge house received 2 extra layers so it could form the inner curve of the forward tread, I then modified a pencil to add 20mm to the first curve as the Pic shows.



As the next pic shows I've decided on 2000 grit wet & dry for the treads.



The treads aft of wheel house I botched so it ended being a template as shown next.



After today's effort I smothered my hands in anti - inflammatory gel it was a cold 8c winters a few weeks early will try a heater this year. It may just waste money as a claustrophobic I have to leave the door open.

Looking Nice Damien as usual.

Thanks Phil.

Got the walkway 2000 grit W&Dry paper down yesterday on the upper deck it looks good only wasted 2 sheets of to 2000 paper before I got the measurements right!!! That's modelling.





Put the forward section of lower deck under weights to stop curl.



and the next section.



While these were drying I started putting the vents in place.



on the 4th (last) Murphy stepped in & I glued it on the wrong side of the mark with super glue.



The damage done with my pallet knife removing it.



I put filler in ready for more painting tomorrow GRRRRRRRRRRR I thought I was ready for detailing, the primer will be OK not sure on the top coat it's getting very cold I don't want a flash fire from spraying with the heater on in the shed.

The repair worked great the paint still a little tacky so haven't put the vent in place, the funnel is on I put the seats in place and a few folk for a photo shoot here goes.



I completed the name board I printed out to names then put sticky tape on both sides cut them out and hobby glued them to 1/32 ply and sealed the bare ply with dope.
It's coming together.

Looking good Damien. Can't wait to see how it sails.

Barrie

Thanks Barrie it's a ways off sailing yet though.

looking superb Damien................painting a model is my worst nightmare,but it seams I am not the only one who has the odd problem now and then.............thankfully you seam to be able to repair them far easier than I do..............someone said to me once that painting is: 50% preparation 10% application and 40% patience..............sadly that last 40% is what I lack when it comes to painting,

I'll post the name pic again in the original form with the ghost spot the differences something went wrong when in I put it on photobucket. The second pic is as it should be and went onto photobucket without issue.