like a kid in a sweet shop

As if you could forget to make a part for me,feeling upset now.Love the idea of the pill cover for the blue light cover!
Just had a thought seeing you drilled your finger,please dont take up piercing or tatooing,I dont think customers will want your version of a teabag piercing with all the perforations lol
What with the wonderful work on the models(not fingers) being done ,by both yourself and Stav,AND hearing the good news about Mick in Canada,and the wonderful day out I had yesterday exhibiting my HMS RAMILLIES model,it has really cheered me up this weekend.
Thanks guys,I can never repay your kindness
Mick F

battleshipbuff wrote:

As if you could forget to make a part for me,feeling upset now.Love the idea of the pill cover for the blue light cover!
Just had a thought seeing you drilled your finger,please dont take up piercing or tatooing,I dont think customers will want your version of a teabag piercing with all the perforations lol
What with the wonderful work on the models(not fingers) being done ,by both yourself and Stav,AND hearing the good news about Mick in Canada,and the wonderful day out I had yesterday exhibiting my HMS RAMILLIES model,it has really cheered me up this weekend.
Thanks guys,I can never repay your kindness
Mick F

don't you worry...…….i'll think of some way, lol. 

so the boats have been sprayed so superbly by Stavros for mick and myself it is now ready for me to start adding all the parts that I have been feverishly making for micks boat behind the scenes and painting both sets ready for just adding...….

but not until I have made the wiring looms for the deck lights on both vessels and installed them tidily...…..once these have been done I shall just follow my nose and add the fittings in a sequence that saves me damaging others that have been added before the next batch...….a tall order. 

the title of this thread says it all, lol  

Well obviously I haven't seen the paint job in the flesh, but can see from the photos what an outstanding job, Dave Stavros Jones has done on both of our Shannon models.I have met so many people on my travels, and feel very privileged to be able to have some of them as friends. Stav, thank you matey, for being so good to me.
Mick F

MORE...……..OF THE JOB I'VE BEEN DREADING!!!...…………


wiring up all of the lights on our boats...…..mick talked me into reluctantly wiring all of the lights into the two boats...…...he says they look better in the dark with lights on...……

I DON'T SAIL IN THE DARK MATEY...…….PERHAPS I SHOULD......to relieve the stress of arguing daughters, lol. 

anyway.....thought i'd start at the stern and do it like a ring maid, as each LED is fitted with a resistor to take 12v...

but there in lay a problem,,,,,the two most aft were inaccessible because of the superstructure, and so I used micks as a Guiney pig and drilled where I could to make the last holes just assessible……...think I have it cracked...………….and so, I glued the led's into the predrilled holes from the inside with supaglue, after testing each one before fitting....once they have set, i'll trim the wiring and solder each to the next in line so that at the end, i'll just have the two wires to attach to a plug that will go into a switch that mick has bought for the purpose. 

took me some time and some foul language but Micks deck lights are now lit up like a Christmas tree.

Looking great Neil if the LED's seem too bright you could increase the resistor value this will reduce light output.

Damien wrote:

Looking great Neil if the LED's seem too bright you could increase the resistor value this will reduce light output.

I can always paint them black...…….my solution to lights on models, lol. 

Hope you learned how to knit with all those wires
Knit one purl one. 
Damien, the resistors were pre wired, and if too bright at the set 12v,would reducing the voltage supply lessen the brightness?
Mick F

battleshipbuff wrote:

Hope you learned how to knit with all those wires
Knit one purl one. 
Damien, the resistors were pre wired, and if too bright at the set 12v,would reducing the voltage supply lessen the brightness?
Mick F

YES

Barrie

no point having lights on yer boat matey if they are dim...……..how will you see it in the dark...……..lol.

I shall leave my boat to fit the LED's for a day now, help my stress level diminish before I stack it up to feaver point again doing mine, lol...………

and so I started looking at the belting around my Shannon...…...I am in a bit of a quandary!!!

when Mick in Canada bought my boat for me as a present and ordered it in the early month of 2016 Adrian had made the belting out of hard resin. However within a few sets of mouldings, he had found that the mouldings became very hot during curing and this process was having a profound effect upon the moulds...…..creating heat and expanding the moulds, so that with every casting of the hard resin the moulds were expanding because of the heat and the belting mouldings were coming out bigger and bigger.
so he stopped using the moulds, and resin, remade the masters and started moulding in a rubber resin...……

he didn't realise this until after I had taken the model home, and he got in touch to tell me the new rubber mouldings were on their way to me and once I had received them to through the hard resin ones away...…..

but being the hoarder I am I kept the hard ones. I checked them some time ago, and being one of the first sets out of the moulds they had not expanded and are actually exactly the same as the rubber resin ones...…

so! the quandary is, do I use the soft rubber ones or the harder resin ones...……….TBH the harder resin ones actually look more like the real thing. 

If it were my choice Neil, it would be the rubber one every time, if only for the cushioning effect when coming alongside. Or of course if you are like me, hitting other boats lol
Mick F

battleshipbuff wrote:

If it were my choice Neil, it would be the rubber one every time, if only for the cushioning effect when coming alongside. Or of course if you are like me, hitting other boats lol
Mick F

make a good weapon against all those you don't like at the lakeside, lol. I really am undecided though...……...the hard resin fenders look nicer.

hi neil

I find that rubber tends to leave indentations on it if you happen to store it next to a sharp or blunt edge or against something over a long period,  while in storage. so my reply is the hard resin.  


davidjt

Put some cardboard on the window to cover it and carry on

stavros wrote:

Put some cardboard on the window to cover it and carry on

you know the state of my workshop mate...……..I wouldn't be able to see anything then lol...……..anyway...……...i'll start early and wake those little sods up, lol. 
/

It looks messy, but all cabin lights and wiring have now been added, and glued into place with a silicon type glue that is very good with odd materials to odd materials.

also, at the last fitting of deck lights I just didn't have enough of them so saved a few for the fitting at the harder to access fore and aft end of the cabin until there additions had been ordered and sent...……..as they will be with me in the next day or so, I have now drilled the holes ready and will splice they in to the main ring main of lighting harness, hopefully tomorrow or the next day...………..once this has been done, I can get on with the building. 

I have a 10 way switch to fit to each of micks and my models....these allow the plugs from the different features such as lights, spot and search lights and radar to be switched on/off, and then this is connected to the receiver......I have already determined the position in micks boat, as there are no internals going into the cabin, but with my boat I wonder, 

if I fit it to the underside of the deck at the stern, will the brushless motors interfere with the switch and receiver electrically or not, as they would sit almost directly above the motors. they have both had plasticard boxes made to encase them against water ingress or physical damage. 

now that all of the main cabin deck lights have been added I masked up around the brackets and such for the flying bridge hand rails etc. the stuff I use for small masking jobs is Humbrol Maskol. this is a rubbery compound that paints on to the surface and prevents overpainting.....once the painted area dries, the Maskol just rubs off.

in general, the quality of the parts in this "super kit" is superb, but there are so many frustrating little things that have actually made me sad at times, and angry at others...….

tonight I set about putting the sticky black precut tape around the window "glass" before inserting into the window frames of the cabin, on the Speedline model....……

imagine my frustration when, after putting the black vinyl onto the two shaped forward windows, and then progressing from the front 3 windows to the four oblong windows, I find a miss print of the wider vinyl black frames...……….there are 4 of the thinner framing pieces, fine...…….right number, and then going on to find that ONLY THREE of the wider framing transfers have been printed...…………..ITS NOT BLOODY ROCKET SCIENCE to draw 4 transfers on the sheet  for 4 windows, instead to leaving the builder just 3 to play with...……….

luckily I have plenty of black vinyl stick on sheeting and have solved the problem by starting to make a frame from my supplies...…………………..but this omission SHOULD NOT HAPPEN...…….not at the price of this kit...………….and how long would it take to get one replacement frame...…....god only knows...…………..I really will be glad when this build is finished.

























the width has been marked on the frame, and the centre will be cut out tomorrow, once it has had time to stick, as the adhesive isn't nearly as strong as those supplied in the kit...……….but it is far better than waiting for a single replacement.

the hand rails on the flying bridge of both boats have now also been brush painted using a perfect match grey from Humbrol to the Halfords polar grey spray paint used for the deck rails and stanchions.

OK OK OK Ill have to give you 11/10  for that one   


Dave

stavros wrote:

OK OK OK Ill have to give you 11/10  for that one   


Dave

FROM YOU MATEY...…………. that is the equivalent of an honorary degree....cheers, much appreciated....………...oh yes, forgot i'm picking one of those up in July………..wonder if they'll give it me in model boat building lol. 


and now to the next stage...…….

now to the next stage...………..fitting the belting.
as I said earlier I have two choices that my kit came with...….the original hard moulded belting which had to be abandoned after just 3 sets of moulds were mate...………...and what is now supplied the softer rubber.
I finally after dry fitting each set a few times, I have chosen the hard moulded compound, and for two reasons.
1] it looks more realistic and nearer to the real boats than the rubber set. and 2] whilst cleaning some hard residue from the rubber ones this afternoon whilst dry fitting, I plucked the surface with my finger nail...…..
so if a finger nail can disfigure them enough to show, then the concrete ponds that I sail in will rip them apart eventually...……...and you can't really start filling groves in rubber...…...so the choice has been made...…….hard over soft. 

working to a time scale now...…..a pre destined date set from circumstances I can no longer escape from, and so have been working today, not normal for a grand prix day, lol...………...even though I refuse to pay those robbing bar stewards sky for the privilege of watching it live, it is still a day of rest lol. 

but today, I noticed that I hadn't painted the separation strip between the rubber belting on micks boat as I had promised Stav……….so masked that off and hand painted with Humbrol enamel.

then it was on to the array of buttons and dials for the flying bridge...….there is method in my madness as these are just small parts.

but if I don't do them now, it will be more difficult to apply once the main mast is set in place, as my fingers are just not that nimble any more...…...later, once the paint has dried I'll stick them on both boats...……….

I also, with agreement with mick, used a waterproof fabric pen to apply rivets [ to replace the nickel silver ones that are printed on the Speedline model] on the engine access plates on the top of the superstructure roof...….using a guide I did as best as my shaky hands would allow.

onward and inexorably, I march for a definite delivery date of July 2nd 2030...……………...nah, I don't mean it mick...……..will 2019 do you...…..that's 5 weeks this coming Tuesday!!!    















Tomorrow I pick up a glue called CT1  from a company near me, which is both waterproof and super strength, that I am going to add the belting with...……….close your ears and prepare for foul language emanating from upt norf.

top and bottom beginning to look good together.

a little titivating up of the satin black to the interior of the Speedline cabin was needed where I couldn't get the spray can in to cover...………….but how.

a normal brush was too long to get into the corners and upper frames,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,a rag with paint on it...…….perhaps...……...and then...….

problem solved. as I moved my chare back I ran over a paint brush and snapped the end off about 40mm long including the brush itself...……...perfect, and even more perfect the bristles were an angled head.....sheer fluke.

the problem I had been contemplating had been solved purely by accident. 

both sides of fendering now glued on to both boats.

now that this is on, I think we'll se a rapid change in them as we steam towards the end of the build later in june. 

Things are getting very close to the end of the build now,and Im getting more exited with each photo added.
I have to pinch myself sometimes,to see if all this is real,and that I do have such friends who would build models of this quality just for me.
Both my new models will be shown very regularly,this year especially,to raise as much as I possibly can for the RNLI, which is the main purpose of my models.
But I am wanting to get this one on the water and have some fun with it also.As that wonderful peŗsona Geraldine  Aka Peter Kaye,sings
THANK YOU
OVER AND OVER AND OVER AGAIN
Mick F.

once the adhesive had set on the belting, I knew just how short they were at the bow on Micks boat.....and one side[starboard] was actually about 6mm shorter than the port side, but both left a gap between them and the bow fairlead and roller.

I pondered all morning and some of the afternoon as to how to fill the gaps...……...perhaps building layers of the CT1  adhesive, wooden blocks cut and sanded to shape...……...but the answer was staring me in the face...………...trusty old milliput.

and so I mixed some milliput white and placing a spacer of plasticard and taping it both sides to the bow fairlead, I pressed the milliput into the spaces and shaped initially to fit...…...once set, and sanded to full shape tomorrow they will be painted satin black.

after that, the whole belting will be given a coat of black shoe polish.

the fillets of milliput have now hardened, been trimmed and sanded to fit, and glued in to the bow sections with CT1 adhesive, but not before the rubber belting, the hull and the fillerts have been drilled with holes to give a gluing key to hold all together.

and turning to my boat, the belting has been cleaned, any gaps in the recesses filled with CT1 and the anti slip deck masked up in order to repaint the deck edge trimming, as this was damaged during cleaning and filling of the fendering...…...I shall do this in the morning, after my thick head has abated.

You DAMAGED  my PAINTWORK  how dare you .....KEELHAULING  springs to mind