Josie Olsen

Finally on the fourth try to plug the leaks in my test tank success only took 4 tries and around 400ml of resin.

Red ochre primer on the wheels a few days to dry & I'll spray them with satin clear.

Now - extreme care required that they don't end up on the workshop floor

Barrie

 Indeed Barrie. 

I found a few spots on the wheels that were lite on primer coverage so touched them up today.

Then thinking on weight placement of batteries, ESC & Rx I removed most of bulkhead 2 to give more room closer to bow for weight placement a 20mm saw in dremel made easy work of the bulkhead & a 12mm sanding drum in dremel cleaned it up.

Any reason why you can’t use a 2 or 3s lipo? There even lighter on the 2s sizes and smaller still.

None I guess except I know nothing about them & have no charger etc.

hi Damien,

 I was like you with lipos , but a friend of mine who flew helicopters (sadley died last year,) used them in helies and showed me how to use them, (all have now been left to me) and I found them very easy to charge when I bought my own imax b6  charger, its worth the cost when you don't have a lot of room, but as you wont be able to use Josie olsen very much due to your lake its a hard choice to make. but if you have any spare cash  well worth it if you need any help let me no 


david

Belive it or not lipos are cheaper than saddle packs nowadays and even the chargers can do multiple battery types.

What voltage were you planning to run? 7.2, 12v

Equivalent 7.2 pack is a 2s lipo at 7.4v and a 3s is 11.1v.

You can use them like any other type of battery most tend to have a deans plug but it’s easily changed. The old days of them exploding during charging are pretty much non Existent now with the improvements although any other type of battry poses the same risk if damaged when being charged.

Chargers are not expensive. Most auto charge till the battery’s ful and balance the cells, so no over charging issues and killing the battery.

Honestly there are no real cons to swapping out saddle style packs to lipos, clearly a smaller expense when it comes to buying a new charger but long term the saves are greater given that even the cheap lipos can outperform a top end saddle pack.

Clearly this isn’t entirely accurate in regards to cost some lipos are very expensive and some chargers are too but given that your would be running anywhere between 7-12v, the cheaper ranges are more than good enough and will provide many years of reliability.

You also have the extra features that lipos can charge quickly and at the lake side from your cars lighting socket, or even from a 12 or 24v car battery, which is what I used to drag around with me when racing was an old car battrey for the charger!

Just have a google about it maybe worth looking at if you need small, powerful power. ( keep in mind that the bigger the ma the bigger the battry will be but that’s why battery’s come with dimensions!

The motor is 12v  
looked them up 2 for $60Au

Spec's Cells Number: 3
. Voltage: 11.1V
. Minimum Capacity: 3000mAh 
. Discharge: 30C
. Charge Plug: JST-XH-4P
. Discharge plug: T Connector
. Battery Dimension: 136.00*43.00*21.00mm / 5.35*1.69*0.83inch
. Battery Weight: 266g / 9.382oz / 0.59lb
. Package Dimension: 165*65*59mm


Pretty much the same weight as 10 aa's and approx the mass.

What a good idea, I hadn't thought of that one Damien

 I'll have to buy a small can of something to get the metal to attach to the upper section.

Can you not use more magnets let into the upper deck with opposite side downwards Damien or do you think it might be hard to separate the two parts ? They are rather strong.

Just a thought..............

I hadn't thought of that Paul and only have room for the tin plate pieces on the upper deck however these magnets can only be separated by sliding them sideways would make it hard to lift the upper section off.

Paddles ready for use.



I've struck a problem worked at it for 2 1/2 hours without a fix The upper decks sit in place perfectly and the magnets hold well when I add the motor assembly with or without the wheels the upper decks no longer fit correctly and rock up & down with the approximate axle position as the pivot point it has me stumped nothing on the upper structure is in contact with the axle or motor assembly.

That's a strange one Damien, a bit of a conundrum, can you give us a few photos to see if anyone can come up with any suggestions.

Perhaps tomorrow if I don't make adjustments with a large hammer first. 

Be careful with that hammer Damien you might break something

I can only think that the weight of the motor assembly is distorting something. Its a bit difficult to see what that could be working from photos

Barrie

I was about to suggest a similar thing, since you hocked out material earlier for space you may have made the hull a little more flexiable, this in turn could as Barrie states could be allowing the motor assembly to move the hull.
If the hull is moving you may eat to look at adding a brace bar across a couple of the bulkheads where nothing is fouling to give some strength and form back.

My other thought is something is fouling from the installation, or the panel itself is now out of shape, which could be a weather issues effecting the wood.

If you can get the panned flat and no foul anything by pushing on it in places it would be the wood to which your options are to add a framework inside to keep it flat, or swap out the magnets for a bit and bolt assembly so you literally screw the panned down into place.

Thanks guys I'll look at it again tomorrow it does it whether the engine assembly is bolted down or not.
I Just twigged what it may be, a few days ago while thinking about water ingress to hull I oil coated the paddle shaft added body filler to the shaft slot either side and put the eng assembly in place, I found the upper deck opening for the engine beam was rubbing against the opening & I had to realign the eng assembly but haven't relieved the the paddle shaft body filler.
I'll cut the filler out tomorrow and see how it goes.

Magnets gone, bolts it is I have some 3mm bolts and captive nuts chilly day tomorrow 3c overnight and only 8c top tomorrow with 80% chance of 10mm of rain may just sit near heater all day.

Can’t beat the captive nut system, it’s the one I use the most for all hatch’s are areas as risk of knocking or flying off!

Good job bud

Thanks mate.

Problem mostly solved with a length of wire I measured from the bow to the paddle shaft where it exits the hull both sides where they exit the hull and found a 5mm discrepancy meaning the shafts were not a 90deg to the centre line that's now been fixed.

Then another problem became apparent how the heck do I bolt down the bow upper deck section down through two decks best I can think of is 3mm Id brass or Aluminium tube between the decks 

The 2 stern screws are easy enough to set up.

When it comes to fixing things down I tend to use what ever works at the cost of the models appreance loosing some authenticity especially if it’s a reasonable accurate model.

In do try to hide as many of these fixing down screws as possible, a good example would be on the current urchin build where the roof has two screws which you can see at certain angles but they are not unattractive I there housings, they re out of eye site most of the time being obscured by the overhang of the roof mostly, another screw would be the one that secured the servo hatch that screw is rebated into transom so you don’t even notice it without close inspection, and lastly is the rudders linkage screw, it’s clear as daylight however given how the model works people will forgive me for it given how complex the linkage system works and all that can be seen is a single screw head.

Use what works and see if you disguise any bad ones, either add a coil of rope the screw hide in, behind a stansion rail, rebate or flush to the deck and give it a drop of paint on its head, many options for hiding things, that’s half the fun tho getting things to work and hiding it all!

To disguise the bolts I think I'll disguise them as mushroom vents.

First of four mushroom vents made, started with 10mm dowel chucked in lathe using a centre drill to start the centre hole then a 2.5mm drill 8mm deep or just below the mushroom head, the dimensions are 6mm stem dia 8mm long, the head 10mm dia & 2mm thick slightly under cut to look more like a vent the 2.5mm hole needed just a little relief to be a firm fit for the 3mm for a stainless threaded rod to make it's pwn thread in the wood.                                                                     





Any ideas of a colour welcome please.
 
This one had the whiskers removed after I took the the pic.

4 mushroom vents turned and fitted to 3mm threaded rod, actually I turned 8 of them as I cut them from the dowel spinning in the lathe with a razor saw 4 vanished into the wild blue yonder at the moment of separation they'll show up eventually.  :oops :oops :oops 

2 ready for dope sealer the other 2 will be chucked in cordless drill & with drill running will be sanded to the mushroom dome as the others were.

Looking good Damien - would think they would be painted to match what they are sat on.

Barrie

Yeah that seems to be the consensus. 

Good result for hiding these pesky bolts... wish some of my models gave me options to do that I always seam to do models that have nothing in the way of detail to do the magic tricks.

Brackets to mount the hold down nuts to, dope applied I'll epoxy in place prior to drilling the pilot holes.



The mushroom vents were doped as well but forgot to take pic.

First of brackets for the captive nuts epoxied in place.



Second,



All 4,



No need for worry about brass tube for hiding the mushroom vent screws between upper and mid decks at the bow end

 

These extra long drills 1.5mm to 4mm very handy in situations like accurately drilling through 2 decks.

I like your builds damian………..you think of all eventualities before problems arise...………..totally opposite to me...…….I just blunder on and correct them as I make them, ..

 I wish that was always the case Neil this model has been in the bin once already it doesn't seem to take the threats seriously. 

Decided the next 4 would be more accurate if turned on the lathe mounted them on 4mm bolts with dual nuts to stop them undoing mid turning.
The centre hole was drilled 3.5mm and enlarged with a burr in dremel for an exact fit on the brass tube. 



 

Turned to 9.8mm finished to 9.69mm with a 180 grit sanding board.

Damien wrote:

 I wish that was always the case Neil this model has been in the bin once already it doesn't seem to take the threats seriously. 

argghhhh…………….never do that mate...…………...too fine a model...……..

Painted the mushroom vents look good.









The forward brackets with the rivnuts (rivet nuts) in place.
I decided on Rivnuts epoxied into brackets as there wasn't enough room for the captive nuts.



and a view of the brass tubes with upper and lower glands in place

Grrrrrrr finally got into the shed ready to apply decals only to discover I'd printed Josie's name on sticky back white paper by mistake instead of decal paper.

Have printed on decal paper will hit it with clear tomorrow.

she looks absolutely beautiful matey...………..I really am glad you didn't skip it when things were going badly...…….she is a stunner....a real credit to you...…….

just wanna see a video of her sailing....


oooooppppzzzzz sorry forgot it was your winter lol...…..i'm basking here in 30 c...…...a lovely weather spree we're having...…….ah well. c'est la vie

Ahhhhhh shurrup about weather. Brrrrrrrrrrr

Ballarat Ap at Saturday 10:20am EST


Ballarat Ap at Saturday 10:20am EST

Temperature:	7.3°C
Feels like:	2.9°C
Dew point:	7.2°C
Relative Humidity:	99%
Wind:	WSW 32 km/h
Gusts to:	39 km/h
Pressure:	1019.2 hPa
Rainfall:	0.0mm since 9am

another hot sunny day here in paradise matey.