Josie Olsen

I've never  heard of them either.

OK - maybe not the correct name  Amati Plank Benders is the correct name. In my view an overpriced tool - but so are all Amati's other tools.



Barrie

Thanks Barrie, I will take a look on the net and check them out

Four planks each side glued on 



Clamps in progress to hold hull inverted for the rest of the planks the hard work begins with tighter compound curves.
I've only glued myself to the hull 3 times so far lol




And the poly pipe for soaking the planks 40mm id




Damien.

Keel clamps finished and mounted.





And clamped in place.

That's a neat idea for a clamp Damien, I like it

Another 2 each side on the bottom of the hull.

Its coming along nicely Damien   Now planking wasn't so bad was it

Barrie

You're Making it look easy Damien

Thanks chaps far better than I expected the only trouble I've had was it was really warm today and the white glue was drying before I got to the end of the planks.

2 - 3mm x 3mm and a  5mm x 3mm each side to get around the hull's bottom curve.

Only a little planking to do tomorrow and then the sanding starts.

Looking good Damien

Damien,

Before I start sanding the outside of my planked hulls I resin the insides - either just resin, or resin and glass fibre tissue or model aircraft tissue. It makes the hull more rigid to help with sanding.

Barrie

I'll use filler on any gaps before the resin or it'll be a disaster sanding.

5/2/16 Planking finished, filler to all the gaps and polyester resin to the inside to stiffen it up prior to sanding the resin cured quickly on top of shed in full sun 27c heat.

6/2/16  Sanded easily a few bits of filler still needed a calliper was used to ensure equal outer width of  each bulkhead from keel at deck level.

Pic's later off to add filler it will dry quickly 27c outside heading for 31c.

Inside with polyester resin coat.



Second lot of filler sanded  coming together nicely .





The bow blocks glued in place.

Looking good Damien. 

Barrie

And all the worrying before, it all looks fine   it'll be me that's troubled about doing Eileen next    I'm not looking forward to that but you and Barrie have both given me more confidence

Go for it mate 

I'll have a go as soon as I have finished lining out the new bit off shed and built the new bench

Bow and stern nicely to correct shape.





Keel and bulkheads removed as shown on the plan.



and the deck cut from 2.5mm ply.



Had a productive day.

Coming along nicely Damien 

Thanks Paul.

While sanding the bow blocks I was regretting  gluing the the stem piece on first with super glue however a whoops happened with it caught under the bench and it broke sanding proceeded smoothly and a new stem was added to finish her off I intended to glass tissue & resin her today but I cant be bothered so will sit and watch Babylon5 episodes.

I like a bit of science fiction too

I love it lol recently finished all of DS9 and 3 epi's of Eureka left to watch.

I have watched quite a few of Eureka, have you watched any Stargate, my favourite is Stargate Atlantis.

If you like strange Sci-Fy try Fringe, some of it is almost believable that it could be real in the near future, Continuum is another worth a watch if you like time travel..............

I like most science fiction stuff as long as it is well done.

I watched Stargate Universe but was disappointed as it only ran for 2 seasons, but still worth a watch

2 layers of glass cloth went on easily  (See the post in Tricks ant tips) no dramas 5% thinner added to the polyester resin.
The stem and end of keel were all I that wouldn't behave so will need to do separately.



Nice and smooth.



She'll be ready to trim tomorrow.

Had a few 6mm bubbles and in several places the tissue lifted at deck level nothing a little body filler won't fix.







I doped the deck level plank and top of the blocks next I'll smear the  hull with body filler and wet sand when dry.

Hi Damien, is it general practice to either cover with fibre glass tissue inside or out, I understand why you are doing it but I am curious to know..........

On another note, she is coming along quite nicely

Thanks Paul.

Applying resin to the inside firms up the balsa so it doesn't warp whilst sanding, I apply resin/glass tissue to the outside to accident proof the hull against other models and rocks around the launch sites.

That makes sense, something I will have to think about

Damien wrote:

Thanks Paul.

Applying resin to the inside firms up the balsa so it doesn't warp whilst sanding, I apply resin/glass tissue to the outside to accident proof the hull against other models and rocks around the launch sites.

Hi Paul I do the same as Damien, except that I sometimes use model aircraft tissue instead of glass tissue. I also use either glass or paper tissue inside sometimes if my planking isn't very good   instead of just resin. I also prefer to use a water based resin if possible - it has less odour and is easier to clean up. If using it inside I always use some form of tissue.

Barrie

After removing the obvious faults in the GRP surface I sprayed the hull with high build primer after it dried I wet sanded with 120 git wet & dry paper unfortunately it was not as smooth as I thought. A drama proceeded as I found my spot filler had thickened since last use approx 12yrs since last used on my Hillclimb car, I thinned it with GP thinners and proceeded to apply to hull but being 29c day it dried as i applied it the hull ended up looking like a mountain rage of hills cliffs and chasms 2 to 3mm thick left it 3 days to fully dry.
Finally started wet sanding with 120 grit without much success for 2 hrs so switch to 80grit for another hour also without much success this putty had set like concrete.

I attacked it today with my sander with 90mm triangle 80 grit pads which cut the worst of it and with the paper in my hand not to bad as pics show.







Tip If stop putty gets thick and lumpy chuck it out.

Hull finished ready for final u/coat.





Rudder from 1.5mm aluminium sheet & some 2.9mm stainless steel rod.
The blade material was  bent at 90deg's in a vice and hand bent the rest of the way
finished of with a hammer.



The rudder shaft was notched diagonally in six places and was epoxied into place. 
The joint of the 2 sides was super glued and when dried body filled was packed into the top & bottom.



The brass plate pivot for rudder bottom pin although not on plan was 3mm tube hammered flat 
was added as the pivot tube is only around 15mm long .

With the hull ready for the deck I thought of getting a profile for a stand and thought of plaster bandage to get the profile after seeing the price on ebay I cut a hand towel into strips and soaked then in plaster wrapped the hull in cling wrap and placed 4 strips fore and aft,





The string was needed to hold the strips to the contour of the hull.

While not able to process photo's at present building progresses I found the beam pivot bearing shaft some what off centre I removed the pivot tube to rectify I placed axle rod in drill press with the tube centre over said axle it was place within the beam and held at 90 deg by the drill press locked in place while the glue dried.

Funnel made and cylinder and valve assembly well under way couldn't get 3/16"channel cheaply so with Dremel and 12mm sander tube I spent an hour turning it into channel (Anyone want a heap of brass powder lol) Brass scroll work for the top of the assembly is next.

When I get my computer fixed I'll add all the pictures I've taken of the progress.

Finally have my computer fixed and able to process photos.

The stand completed.





Funnel and cylinder/valve block done.



Piston slide gantry under construction.



3/16 square brass tube turned into channel with 1/2" dia 80 grit sanding drum in the Dremel.



Gantry assembly.



The deck installed with rubber bands and 10mm dowel used to force it to conform to the hull curvature while glue dried.



Engine bay cut out.







My deck didn't quite match the the bow as this pic shows the filler required to make the deck conform to shape.

  You've been busy Damien. Its coming along nicely. Hope the computer repair was not too costly.

Barrie

No $20 for s/h power supply & $10 labour. We have a computer shop near by that caters for the poor, unemployed and disabled if needed they will supply a S/h machine for $100 I donate our old computers when my son updates ours.

Yes moved along instead of sitting around most of the day had much more time whilst sharing my wife's computer even got the shed totally cleaned 
Didn't stay that way long though 

Looking good Damien   wish I could get back to my boats, the shed seems to taking forever    your progress is encouraging me though

  Good keep at it Paul. 

3 of the 4 engine/valve rods made some finishing still needed.
The plan called for laminating 3mm ply but I had 3 failures as glue let go while shaping so cut new ones from 9mm poplar.

 

3 of the bow planks glued in place pic's when closer to finished planking.

been a while since I looked at this Damien..........how well it has come on.........superb.

I like the idea for the profile for the stand.

neil.

Thanks mate. 

The fourth a brass eyelet for the pivot arm drive from the drive gear, hand carved with Dremel and a 5mm milliing bit from 3mm x 12mm brass.